Serious Hunger, Opening ceremony of Tastehouse ©Tastehouse

We often find ourselves wanting to visit a brand’s showroom—especially a flagship store—instead of shopping online (even when the internet price might be slightly cheaper) or going to a department store just to buy a certain outfit. Likewise, there are times we want to visit a café whose coffee isn’t particularly good but whose spatial design or ambience is stylish. Such impulses are less about acquiring a type of clothing or a cup’s worth of caffeine than about consuming an atmosphere that can only be felt by being there. It’s an activity geared less toward practical purpose than toward switching one’s mood.

Neologisms popular among young office workers these days—“sibal-costs” (shi-bal-biyong)¹ or “squander-fun” (tang-jin-jaem)²—are connected to these “mood-lifting activities.” The category spans everything from long overseas trips to a few-second moments staring at cute animal GIFs or luscious dessert photos on one’s timeline.

Though it varies by person, the common denominator of “mood-lifting activities” can be summarized as the consumption of something “cute,” “pretty,” or “sweet.” Like a healing potion in an RPG, they function as the quickest, easiest tools for shifting one’s vibe or mood. What’s interesting is that most of these activities are coupled with photography. As the “cute / pretty / sweet” thing passes through the camera, much of the object’s material / real qualities evaporate. The object remains as an image that not only is modified by “cute / pretty / sweet” but comes to represent “cuteness / prettiness / sweetness” itself. Scattered across social-media timelines, such images are consumed as images per se. In that light, we can’t dismiss people who diligently take photos in cafés as mere selfie- or SNS-addicts. Perhaps they are those who most actively enjoy the “ambience” they want.

In this way, browsing a carefully designed offline store—without buying the clothes—can be more effective for lifting one’s mood than ordering garments online to be delivered. If we think along these lines, when indulging a feeling or enjoying a particular atmosphere, the process of purchasing or eating some physical thing may not be that important. From this perspective, there are cases on the timeline in which the number of people who see something only as a photo far exceeds those who have actually owned or eaten it. Like a “rice cake in a painting,” Serious Hunger—a dessert brand that exists only in photos and videos on timelines—falls squarely into this case. Occasionally someone appears claiming to have tasted it, but no one knows where to go to buy it. The brand “Serious Hunger” and its SNS accounts are visible, but there is no physical shop that sells desserts. As a result, many wonder whether it really exists, and if so, how they might try it. Others, regardless of whether it can be eaten, simply focus on the ecstasy of looking at the images that Serious Hunger releases.

“Serious Hunger” is one of the various SNS accounts run by artist Song Min Jung, who has primarily presented video works; it is simultaneously a fictional dessert shop and an artwork in a mixed form of video and installation. In that it offers a mood through images rather than the taste of desserts themselves, it connects to the “mood-lifting activities” mentioned above. Is it then a fictional dessert shop? To be sure, it seems “virtual” in that it does not exist physically and you cannot purchase cakes or cookies through its SNS accounts; but it is also hard to say it resides purely in the realm of the virtual. Desserts operate as auxiliary elements that create a certain mood, and anyone can feel the mood proposed by the artist through this account.

Thus, although “Serious Hunger” is a dessert brand within a world the artist has created, it does not stay only in the virtual. It functions most effectively with one foot in both reality and virtuality—through the SNS timeline.

The video works of “Serious Hunger,” which are often in the form of commercials, state or imply through on-screen captions / narration that they will switch your “mood”:

“It's a joke or a fictional persona; there, we are not hungry at all. We just look cool.”
— Serious Hunger x Zeewooman, 2016

“From now on, we will transmit the mood we propose. We’ll suggest the most accurate mood possible.”
— Double Deep Hot Sugar: the Romance of Story, 2016

“Intuitive cream improves your mood immediately.”
— Cream Cream Orange, 2017


These “mood-switching elements” stem less from the videos themselves than from the dessert-table settings presented at exhibitions and events in which “Serious Hunger” has participated, and from the images that document them. As noted, whether visitors actually get to taste the cakes and desserts on the table is not very important here. Where “Serious Hunger” truly functions as an artwork is in asking how the atmosphere of that place is constructed, and what moods and experiences viewers feel and consume within it.

Recently, “Serious Hunger” staged a “ceremony” for the opening of the second-floor exhibition space at Tastehouse. Visitors finally faced a table on which cakes they had seen on timelines were harmoniously arranged with flowers and plants in collaboration with a plant shop; yet, again, they could not taste the cakes. Instead, they could enjoy the atmosphere “Serious Hunger” proposed and examine the elements on the table in their own ways while taking photographs. This logic also held in earlier exhibitions and events such as 《Otaku Project》 (Buk-Seoul Museum of Art, 2017), 《Dessert Exhibition》 (COEX, 2017), and 《Artist’s Lunchbox》 (Seoul Museum of Art, 2017).

In October of that year, in 《Taste Pavilion》 (Tastehouse, 2017), Song Min Jung also presented another account, “Jacqueline,” set as the proprietor of “Est-ce vraiment nécessaire?” (“Is that really necessary?”), a café-cum-general store in Juvisy, France. Accompanied by an instructional video, the “Jacqueline” corner—staged as a small refrigerator—allowed only those who paid an “opening fee” of 2,000 KRW to open the fridge and peruse and purchase items such as cookies and chocolates. Here, the “opening fee” became the price paid to gain the opportunity to experience and purchase the atmosphere created through “Jacqueline.” This setup makes the artist’s intent in “Serious Hunger” or “Jacqueline” crystal clear. It also leads participating viewers to recognize more explicitly what it is they are consuming.

The mood that “Serious Hunger” creates may seem dominated by a cute and pretty vibe—like cakes and table settings. Yet, at the same time, something hollow can be sensed; from a corner of the thoroughly staged image, a tinge of melancholy and loneliness leaks out. Across the body of video works as well, “Serious Hunger” does not merely evoke a mood of cuteness / prettiness / sweetness. The act of consuming “cute / pretty / sweet” things³ as “mood-lifters” reflects that much reality’s melancholy and stress, and the way “Serious Hunger” “transmits an accurate mood / improves your mood immediately” likely operates in a similar context.

Consider timelines in which a tweet about wanting to die is followed by retweeted cat or dog photos: what Song Min Jung intends through “Serious Hunger” is closer to showing the very mode by which (mostly cute) photogenic things trend and are consumed in the SNS world. Thanks to this, what viewers can consume / enjoy as an “artwork” in “Serious Hunger” is not confined to the visibly presented cakes or video pieces. For the artist, the timeline, like a canvas that bears a painterly image, becomes the support that sends out Serious Hunger (as image) as a “virtual dessert shop.” In this sense, the timeline’s reactions to the cake images function not as merely mistaken audience feedback but as another axis constituting the work.


Song Min Jung

Working with “current states (current moods)” as material, the artist provides a mood she has set or becomes a fictional account that links herself onto the timeline. “Serious Hunger” is one such account constituting the work, a fictional dessert brand that borrows the form of advertising to link to viewers—or consumers.
 
¹ A portmanteau of the Korean profanity sibal and “cost,” meaning “an expense that would not have occurred had one not been stressed.” For example, splurging on a perm at an upscale salon in a fit of anger, or taking a taxi on a route one normally travels by bus or subway. (Parkmungak, Dictionary of Current Affairs, 2017)
² A neologism combining tangjin (to squander one’s wealth) and jaem (fun), meaning the “fun of small squanderings.” As economic recession and job shortages persist, younger generations with modest incomes spend all available money to extract maximum satisfaction—an approach to stress relief that indulges in small, unnecessary purchases. (Parkmungak, Dictionary of Current Affairs, 2017)
³ This can include cute animals and babies; character goods; appetizing food; sleek interior design; and even “photogenic artworks / exhibitions.”


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